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Summertime... YAY! :o)
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7H = Handydandy Helpful Horse Hints (heh heh heh :o)
I know, technically that's eleven H's, right?
I know, technically that's eleven H's, right?
Pellets are definitely an economical thing to feed your horses, but breathing in the dust that comes with them can be very detrimental to your horse's health (it can cause heaves). So what do you do about it? Several of our horses had a periodic light cough that magically disappeared following this little "experiment" of mine :o) I went to a people store and bought this "heavy duty" metal strainer to scoop the feed - now you do have to be rather careful and hold it close to the basket so it doesn't bend and break (this is not, remember, what it's supposed to be used for). Shake it lightly over a garbage can or other bucket to sift the dust out and voilà! the dust is outta there and you have a much safer feed. I also have a larger version (colander) for when I hit the bottom of the feed bin - I can set it on a bucket (fits the rim), pour the remaining pellets, shake lightly to let the dust sift through and it'll fall out the bottom into the bucket (pretty neat, huh?) A nice inexpensive solution...(Ta-Da!)
Beauty on a Budget - "Official" mane and tail brushes can get expensive.
I had really cool magenta one I coughed up $6 for that I absolutely loved; and
you know what? It broke. I also paid a pretty penny for a fancy detangling brush [shown on the left], but found that the horses and I both preferred the one from the Dollar Store [right]. Sure works for me! Now maybe you don't have to worry about things like paying $6 for one brush instead of $1, that's okay - you can just skip this section (although now that I think about it, maybe you would like to visit our projects page and hit that little yellow button that says donate...sorry, couldn't resist :o)
BooBoos and Boxes...
Some of the handiest things I've found have nothing whatsoever to do with horses [and doesn't that just figure?] Like keeping Hydrogen Peroxide in a .99c ketchup bottle used for picnics. Why? Peroxide must be stored in a dark container or it will lose its fizzability [and yes I just made that word up], but it also makes it much easier to treat small wounds without excessive waste. Another thing I figured out? The peroxide doesn't seem to bother the horses, but if it dribbles they definitely don't appreciate it. So keep a paper towel handy to catch any runoff from the wound and it will definitely reduce the irritation factor for your horse and you :o)
We had purchased some Ichthamol to treat a boil my husband had on his
leg, (it's a drawing salve). Not long after that, Max developed some swelling on his shoulder. Turned out he had some kind of small puncture from a stick or something that had become infected. Even when you check your horses daily (ours get a once over usually twice a day at meals and often in between) you can easily miss small injuries. Since the wound was full of pus and we had this stuff handy, we gave it a try and would you believe the swelling was gone (and the heat with it) in no time! Note: It is messy (tar-like) and really stinky!
We found this marvelous little shower tote at a Walmart store for keeping medical supplies handy and organized [left], and we keep more medical supplies sealed in a plastic tote [right]. A favorite dressing to keep "under wraps"? Those non-stick telfa pads (people stuff) are great under leg bandages when you have a small wound that needs to be wrapped. We do store the Ichthamol inside the house, however, because of the storage temperature requirements.
My all time favorite wound treatment? Skin Renovator Gel by Equine America. Being horse poor, it's extremely expensive but it's the best I've found so far for treating wounds (best of all? It doesn't sting or startle! :o)
$aving Your Pennies on Treats- Instead of feeding entire treats to your horse [shown left] why not make the most of a bag? Stretch your treats out by cutting them in smaller pieces; your horse will still be delighted to get one and you can extend the life of a bag of treats considerably while watching his diet at the same time. A pair of bypass pruning shears work great as shown in the picture on the right [2 treats cut up became 6]. Pretty cool, huh?
A word of caution, however, be sure that your pruners were not used to cut anything that is toxic to horses (Foxglove, Oleander, Japanese Maple, etc.) For a more detailed list of plants and trees that are toxic to horses, visit Sylvia Scott's page.
$tretch your fly control too - This is a great concept called a Raybon block. Raybon is a feed through fly control that prevents flies from laying eggs in manure (and it works very well). Unfortunately, these 40lb blocks were regarded as the ultimate king size candy bar and would last for about 3 days - definitly not affordable. We took a chisel and hammer and broke the blocks up and now feed the blocks as a supplement rather than free choice (my handy measuring spoon? A melon baller from Walmart - hey, I'm for whatever works best!:o) For a little extra pest control try adding a sulfer block - they work very well as free choice.
Conquering A Bit of A Conundrum...
Below is the formula for the bit rating system I mentioned in our training blog, I know it looks daunting and may seem a little confusing at first (but if someone as mathematically challenged as I am can figure it out, I'll just bet you can too! :o) Most of the hyperlinks I used here go to this Wikipedia page
USE THIS FIRST FORMULA FOR SNAFFLE/NON-LEVERAGE BITS
Answer = Q1 + Q2 +(Q3x Q4) + Q5 - Q6 - Q7 - Q8
*"Q" corresponds to the questions asked below
Question 1:
How many pieces are there in the horse's mouth?
A. 1 to 3 pieces (1 point) B. more than 3 pieces (5 points)
Question 2:
What kind of texture or shape does the mouthpiece have? A. Sharp (triangular or edged) (10 points) B. Prickly (10 points) C. Rough (twisted wire or chain) (10 points) D. Twisted metal (5 points) E. Wrapped with smooth wire (3 points)
F. Smooth (1 point)
Question 3:
What is the ring shape? A. Round/circles (1 point) B. Other shapes (egg, figure 8, D) (2 points)
Question 4:
How thick are the canons (the pieces that go in the mouth)? A. 1/2" or more (1 point) B. 3/8" but less than 1/2" (3 points)
C. Less than 3/8" (10 points)
Question 5:
Is it a gag/elevator bit? A. Yes (8 points) B. No (0 points)
Question 6:
How are the rings attached to the canons?
A. Through holes in the canons (most loose ring snaffles) (1 point) B. All others including Fulmer bits (3 points)
Question 7:
Are there players, keys or a cricket on the bit? A. Yes (3 points) B. No (0 points)
Question 8:
Is the mouthpiece copper, sweet iron, or a flavored material? A. Yes (3 points) B. No (0 points)
THEN plug in the numbers and do the math to see how your horse's bit rates; the higher the points, the more severe the bit:
5 Points or Less = a mild bit; 6 to 19 Points = a moderate bit; 20 Points and over = severe
** Here are the 3 examples of bits I rated for the Snaffle/Non-Leverage bit formula (my answers are in purple)**Just out of morbid curiosity (a frequent issue for me :o) I thought I'd rate 3 different snaffle bits to see what happened. I wanted to know how much of a difference there was between them - if any. Check it out:
1. First up was an inexpensive "run of the mill" snaffle bit we've never used:
Answers: Q1A/1 + Q2F/1 + (Q3A/1 x Q4B/3) + Q5B/0 - Q6B/1 - Q7B/0 - Q8A/0
The Equation: 1 + 1 + (1 x 3) + 0 - 1 - 0 - 0 = 4 (a mild bit)
2. Next came Cinnamon's current bit (another snaffle):
Answers: Q1A/1 + Q2F/1 + (Q3A/1 x Q4B/3) + Q5B/0 - Q6A/1 - Q7A/0 - Q8A/3
The Equation: 1 + 1 + (1 x 3) + 0 - 1 - 0 - 3 = 1 (an even milder bit)
3. Last on the list was Max's training bit (a Fulmer snaffle):
Answers: Q1A/1 + Q2F/1 + (Q3A/1 x Q4B/3) + Q5B/0 - Q6A/3 - Q7A/0 - Q8A/3
The Equation: 1 + 1 + (1 x 3) + 0 - 3 - 0 - 3 = (-1) Hmmmm I wonder if this would be categorized as a "Sissy Bit"? :o)
Pretty interesting all the way around, isn't it?
THIS FORMULA FOR CURB/LEVERAGE BITS
(where the rein is attached below the level of the mouthpiece):
Answer = Q1 + Q2 + Q3 + Q4 + Q5 + (Q8 x (Q6 + Q7)) - Q9 - Q10 - Q 11 - Q12
Question 1:
How many pieces are there in the horse's mouth?
A. 1 to 3 pieces (1 point) B. more than 3 pieces (5 points)
Question 2:
What is the size, height and shape of the port?
A. No port and a broken mouth (use 0 for Q2 and Q3 and skip down to Question 4)
B. High port with steep narrow tongue relief and the port meets the cross piece squarely (a 90 degree right angle) (10 points)
C. High port with broad tongue relief. Joint between port and cross piece is rounded (5 points)
D. Medium or low port with board tongue relief. Joint between port and cross piece is rounded (1 point)
E. No port. Unbroken arched mouth (2 points)
F. No port. Straight unbroken mouth (3 points)
Question 3:
How is the port angled with respect to the shanks?
A. Port slopes back more than the shanks (1 point) B. Port is parallel to the shanks (1 point)
C. Port slopes forward more than the shanks (10 points)
Question 4:
How does the mouthpiece slope side to side?
A. Broken mouth like a common snaffle WITH a solid bar connecting the shanks (1 point)
B. Broken mouth like a common snaffle WITHOUT a solid bar connecting the shanks (10 points)
C. Solid mouth (Mullen) that is perpendicular to shanks (1 point)
D. Solid mouth which slopes down to the shanks (10 points)
Question 5:
How are the shanks bent? A. They aren't bent (3 points) B. Backwards towards the horse's chest (1 point) C. Forward (5 points)
Question 6:
How long are the shanks? (For bits like the Kimberwicks that don't actually have shanks, measure between the muothpiece and where the reins attach). A. 1" or less (1 point) B. Over 1" up to 3" (2 points) C. Over 3" up to 4" (4 points) D. More than 4" (7 points)
Question 7:
What kind of texture or shape does the mouthpiece have? A. Sharp (triangular or edged) (10 points) B. Prickly (10 points) C. Rough (twisted wire or chain) (10 points) D. Twisted metal (5 points) E. Wrapped with smooth wire (3 points)
F. Smooth (1 point)
Question 8:
How thick are the canons (the pieces that go in the mouth)? A. 1/2" or more (1 point) B. 3/8" but less than 1/2" (3 points)
C. Less than 3/8" (10 points)
Question 9:
Where does the curb chain/strap attach?
A. To the same ring as the bridle cheeks (0 points)
B. Separate ring below the ring for the cheeks (2 points)
C. Separate ring behind the ring for the cheeks (5 points)
Question 10:
How are the shanks attached to the canons?
A. Through holes in the canons (most Pelhams) (1 point) B. All others including welded solid (3 points)
Question 11:
Are there players, keys or a cricket on the bit? A. Yes (3 points) B. No (0 points)
Question 12:
Is the mouthpiece copper, sweet iron, or a flavored material? A. Yes (3 points) B. No (0 points)
NOW plug in the numbers and do the math to see how your horse's bit rates; the higher the points, the more severe the bit:
5 Points or Less = a mild bit; 6 to 19 Points = a moderate bit; 20 Points and over = severe
(where the rein is attached below the level of the mouthpiece):
Answer = Q1 + Q2 + Q3 + Q4 + Q5 + (Q8 x (Q6 + Q7)) - Q9 - Q10 - Q 11 - Q12
Question 1:
How many pieces are there in the horse's mouth?
A. 1 to 3 pieces (1 point) B. more than 3 pieces (5 points)
Question 2:
What is the size, height and shape of the port?
A. No port and a broken mouth (use 0 for Q2 and Q3 and skip down to Question 4)
B. High port with steep narrow tongue relief and the port meets the cross piece squarely (a 90 degree right angle) (10 points)
C. High port with broad tongue relief. Joint between port and cross piece is rounded (5 points)
D. Medium or low port with board tongue relief. Joint between port and cross piece is rounded (1 point)
E. No port. Unbroken arched mouth (2 points)
F. No port. Straight unbroken mouth (3 points)
Question 3:
How is the port angled with respect to the shanks?
A. Port slopes back more than the shanks (1 point) B. Port is parallel to the shanks (1 point)
C. Port slopes forward more than the shanks (10 points)
Question 4:
How does the mouthpiece slope side to side?
A. Broken mouth like a common snaffle WITH a solid bar connecting the shanks (1 point)
B. Broken mouth like a common snaffle WITHOUT a solid bar connecting the shanks (10 points)
C. Solid mouth (Mullen) that is perpendicular to shanks (1 point)
D. Solid mouth which slopes down to the shanks (10 points)
Question 5:
How are the shanks bent? A. They aren't bent (3 points) B. Backwards towards the horse's chest (1 point) C. Forward (5 points)
Question 6:
How long are the shanks? (For bits like the Kimberwicks that don't actually have shanks, measure between the muothpiece and where the reins attach). A. 1" or less (1 point) B. Over 1" up to 3" (2 points) C. Over 3" up to 4" (4 points) D. More than 4" (7 points)
Question 7:
What kind of texture or shape does the mouthpiece have? A. Sharp (triangular or edged) (10 points) B. Prickly (10 points) C. Rough (twisted wire or chain) (10 points) D. Twisted metal (5 points) E. Wrapped with smooth wire (3 points)
F. Smooth (1 point)
Question 8:
How thick are the canons (the pieces that go in the mouth)? A. 1/2" or more (1 point) B. 3/8" but less than 1/2" (3 points)
C. Less than 3/8" (10 points)
Question 9:
Where does the curb chain/strap attach?
A. To the same ring as the bridle cheeks (0 points)
B. Separate ring below the ring for the cheeks (2 points)
C. Separate ring behind the ring for the cheeks (5 points)
Question 10:
How are the shanks attached to the canons?
A. Through holes in the canons (most Pelhams) (1 point) B. All others including welded solid (3 points)
Question 11:
Are there players, keys or a cricket on the bit? A. Yes (3 points) B. No (0 points)
Question 12:
Is the mouthpiece copper, sweet iron, or a flavored material? A. Yes (3 points) B. No (0 points)
NOW plug in the numbers and do the math to see how your horse's bit rates; the higher the points, the more severe the bit:
5 Points or Less = a mild bit; 6 to 19 Points = a moderate bit; 20 Points and over = severe
**Here are the 3 examples of bits I rated for the Western/Leverage formula (answers in purple)**
Because walking horses are becoming increasingly popular for trail riding, I threw one in here to see how it stacked up against 2 of the most common western bits used.
1. A sweet iron grazing bit was first on my list:
Answers: Q1A/1 + Q2D/1 + Q3B/1 + Q4C/1 + Q5B/1 + (Q8A/2 x (Q6D/7 + Q7F/1)) - Q9A/0 - Q10B/3 - Q11B/0 - Q12A/3
The Equation: 1 + 1 + 1 + 1 + 1 (2 x (7 + 1)) - 0 - 3 - 0 - 3 = 15 a moderate bit
2. Next up was Shadow's Walking Horse Bit:
Answers: Q1A/1 + Q2D/1 + Q3B/1 + Q4C/1 + Q5B/1 + (Q8A/2 x (Q6D/7 + Q7F/1)) - Q9A/0 - Q10A/1 - Q11B/0 - Q12B/0
The Equation: 1+1+1+1+1 (2 x (7 + 1)) - 0 - 1 - 0 - 0 = 20 a severe bit (so I guess we know who's up next for working backwards to a nicer bit, don't we?)
3. Finally the ever popular Tom Thumb; often referred to (mistakenly) as a cowboy snaffle:
Answers: Q1A/1 + Q2A/0 + Q3N/A,0 + Q4B/10 + Q5B/1 + (Q8A/2 x (Q6D/7 + Q7F/1)) - Q9C/5 - Q10A/1 - Q11B/0 - Q12A/3
The Equation: 1 + 0 + 0 + 10 + (2 x (7 + 1)) - 5 - 1 - 0 - 3 = 18 at the high end of moderate (not quite what I expected, did you?) Considering the snaffles rated very low, this is awfully far away isn't it?
I'll be back soon to rate a Kimberwick and Cinnamon's old Pelham for the English crowd - so stay tuned! :o)
Being algebraically challenged, if I've mangled the math please let me know... But don't hurt my feelings, okay? Thanks! :o)
